What it is
In English, shagreen today usually means the skin of a ray (stingray). Its surface is studded with small, hard, calcified nodules that catch the light like tiny pearls — hence the Chinese name 珍珠鱼皮, “pearl fish skin”. The word is sometimes used loosely for shark skin as well, but shark skin has a finer, rougher texture without the rounded nodules; in Japanese sword fittings, ray skin is called samegawa.
Properties
- Hard-wearing: the hard surface suits parts that are handled constantly.
- Every piece differs: the pattern of nodules cannot be reproduced.
- Unforgiving: damage cannot be patched as with ordinary leather.
- Little stretch: cutting and shaping it takes great skill.
- Lasting sheen: the shine of the nodules does not fade.
History in China
- Early texts including the Huainanzi and the Bencao Gangmu describe the skin of the jiao fish as “patterned with pearls, hard and strong, used to decorate swords and make bow cases”.
- Tang dynasty: a standard covering for sword grips and scabbards — non-slip and hard-wearing — imported from the South Seas and treated as a luxury (see Edward Schafer, The Golden Peaches of Samarkand).
- After the Song: it moved from weapons into scholars’ objects and fine leatherwork.
In parts of Southeast Asia, the densely beaded skin was linked with wealth and good fortune, and objects made from it were given as valued gifts.
With lacquer
He Wei’s Lacquered Shagreen Box combines this skin with urushi.